Mongolia Ongiin Khiid

The bend in the pretty river here marks the remains of two ruined monasteries: Bari Lam

Khiid was built in 1810 on the north bank, the same side of the river as the tourist ger camps. Khutagt Lam Khiid was built in 1760 on the south, but can only be accessed when the water level of the river is low, or iced over in winter. Collectively they're known as Ongiin Khiid. Formerly one of the largest monasteries in Mongolia, and home to over a thousand monks, the complex was destroyed in the 1937 communist purges when over 200 lamas were murdered. Since 1990 a small but growing contingent of monks has set up shop amid the ruins, completing a small temple in 2004, using some original beams from the old ruined monastery to build it. Two monks live here full time, in summer their numbers swell.

Locals claim that to reap the curative qualities of the spring (which apparently runs warm in winter and cool in summer), you must drink from it before sunrise. The ger beside the temple houses a small but interesting museum showcasing some artefacts found at the site, many of which were hidden by monks to save them from the purges. Look out for the only remaining drawing of the original monastery, plus the drinking cups made from the skulls of revered monks.

The views of the ruins, river, ger camps and the surrounding area are impressive from any of the nearby hills. A good way to start is with the one with the ibex monument on top.

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